Hi everyone! I’m Nat from Sew outnumbered and I’m so excited to be sharing my very first guest post here today.
I love to sew for myself and the boys who outnumber me in my house – who said sewing for boys is boring?!?
I came up with the idea to teach you how to sew a scooter buddy pouch because my 4-year-old boy LOVES riding his scooter but we’re forever getting to the playground and then… “Muuuummmm, I’m thirsty!”
Of course us Mums are supposed to be able to produce a variety of drinks/snacks/toys etc out of our bags *Mary-Poppins-style* at any given time. So in an attempt encourage his?independence and avoid me having to carry his heavy water bottle – the Scooter Buddy was born!
This project makes a fabulous gift for any little boy or girl and can be used for a bike too, so be sure to put this on the list for your next handmade gift! I’d LOVE to see if you make one -so please jump over and post a picture on my Facebook page or Flickr group!
Ok, here goes…
What You’ll Need:
- Heavy weight fabric (i.e. denim, cord, duck/canvas) for outer back piece: Cut 8in(w) x 14in(l)
- Medium weight fabric (i.e. quilting cotton) for outer front pieces: Cut 8in(w) x 17in(l) and 5in(w) x 8in(l)
- Medium weight fabric (i.e. quilting cotton) for lining (can be same as outer front piece): Cut 8in(w) x 19in(l).
- Medium or heavy weight adhesive (iron-on) interfacing: Cut 8in(w) x 12in(l)
- 1in- wide Velcro (3 x 1 1/2 in pieces) or snaps if preferred
- 7in zipper
- 1/4in elastic: cut 8in (l) piece
How to sew a scooter buddy pouch
Outer back piece (heavy weight fabric):
1. First, mark a horizontal line 2in from the top edge. Cut along this line.
2. Next, adhere the iron-on interfacing to the large outer back piece.
Outer front piece:
1. On the 8in-wide piece, mark a horizontal line 8? from the top edge and cut along this line.
2. Take the 8?x8in piece and mark a vertical line down the centre (at 4? across). ?Cut along this line. These are your top straps.
3. On the 5in-wide piece, mark a line 4in from the top edge. Cut along this line. These are your side straps.
1. Mark a horizontal line 1in from the top edge.
2. Mark a horizontal line 2in from this first line.
3. Mark a horizontal line 4in from this next line.
4. Cut along all lines.
1. Choose one of the strap pieces and fold on the long side, right sides together.
2. Sew along one short edge and the unfolded long edge, leaving one short edge open.
3. Clip the corners, turn right side out and press.
4. (optional) Top stitch along the three edges.
5. Repeat for the other three straps.
1. Take the 8in x1in piece of fabric for the zipper ends and press the short ends under by 1/4″.
2. Cut this piece in half down the middle so you have two pieces, each with one pressed end.
3. Align folded edge of one piece with one end of the zipper and straight stitch across.
4. Repeat for the other side and trim excess fabric down to approx. 1 1/2 in.
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1. Take the two pocket fabric pieces and finish the edges along the 8in edges. (one edge for the small piece, both edges for larger piece)
2. Align a finished edge of one of the pocket pieces with the raw edge of the zipper, right sides together. Pin in place or secure using a basting tape (like WonderTape, which can be purchased through sewmccool’s Amazon affiliate).
3. Using the zipper foot on your machine, stitch as close to the edge of the zipper as possible, stopping and moving the zipper pull out of the way as you reach it.
4. Press this seam and top stitch from the right side.
5. Repeat with the other side of the zipper and the other pocket piece.
6. Mark your lining piece by drawing a horizontal line 4 1/2in from the top edge.
7. Align the bottom edge of the pocket piece, face down along this line and sew across with a 3/8″ seam allowance.
8. Fold the pocket piece up and press.
9. Baste around the other edges of the pocket using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Prepare front piece:
1. Take the 2in outer back piece of fabric and sew to the bottom of the front outer fabric, right sides together, using a 3/8? seam allowance.
2. Finish the edges of this seam and press.
3. Next, press the top edge of the outer front fabric down by 1/2″ and then 1/2″ again.
4. Sew from the front using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
5. Take the 8in piece of 1/4″ elastic and thread through this casing using a safety pin to guide it.
6. Once the end of the elastic reaches the entrance hole, sew the elastic in place, using a 1/4″ seam allowance and sewing back and forth a couple of times for strength.
7. Pull your elastic through the other end so that 3 inches poke out, and sew in place at the exit hole, using a 1/4″ seam allowance and sewing back and forth a couple of times for strength.
8. Trim the excess elastic.
Sew it all together:
1. Lay the lining/pocket piece right side up on the table and place the outer front (elasticated) piece on top, also with the right side up.
2. Place the outer back piece on top right side down.
3. Mark the bottom edge 2in from each side and both sides 6in from the bottom.
4. Join these points together to form a diagonal line and cut along this line. Move the outer back piece to the side for a moment.
5. Place the top straps 1in from the side, aligning the raw edges with the top raw edge of the lining.
6. Place the side straps 2in from the bottom edge, aligning the raw edges with the side raw edge of the lining and outer front pieces.
7. Place the outer back piece back on top again, with the right side facing down.
8. Pin together. I found it easier to pin just one side of the elastic to begin with.
9. Sew together using a 1/2in seam allowance. Take care when approaching the unpinned side of the elastic casing, pulling it over so the raw edges align. Remember to leave an opening for turning.
Box the bottom corners:
1. Press the bottom and side seam allowances flat (or just press open with your fingers).
2. Squeeze the bottom and adjacent side seam allowances together and pin so they form a point.
3. Mark a line 3/8″ from the edge of the point. The line should be 1in long.
4. Sew along this line and then clip off the excess.
5. Turn right side out and handstitch the hole closed.
Finally, attach Velcro to the top and side straps or use snaps if preferred.
Hurray!! You’re finished!!
I hope you enjoyed learning how to sew a scooter buddy pouch. Now your little one is ready to zoom!
I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial! Feel free to pop over to Sew outnumbered and check out my other tutorials or stay in touch by signing up for my weekly newsletter, join me on Facebook, Pinterest or Flickr.
Natalie Williams blogs at Sew Outnumbered and is a design contributor for SewMcCool.com. To make sure you don’t miss any fun tutorials, please follow SewMcCool by e-mail (the link is at the top of the right-hand column) or join me on BlogLovin’ – the button is just below the e-mail feed box!